The human figure
There’s many tips and tricks in other forms of art that can be applied in origami as well. One of these involves the proportions of human figures, and how to draw them.
Translating this into a tree figure and using the ‘head’ as the basic unit of measurement, we’ll end up with the following:
Tree figure for a rudimentary human, measured in heads
It’s not exactly the proportions that are traditionally used in human figure drawing. There are some slight differences:
1. The arms are slightly longer.
2. The torso is slightly shorter.
3. The legs are slightly longer.
The reasons for these will be made clear below.
In any case, let’s set one head to be 2 units on our square grid (the reason for this 2-unit selection has to do with parity in box pleating – more on this in a later post, possibly). Packing the above tree into a square will give a crease pattern that uses a 20×20 grid:
![]()
Square packing for a human figure
There’s quite a bit of unused space in this packing. Some of these can be filled up by pulling the leg and arm squares back from the edges, while the remaining bit in the centre can be packed with filler molecules. This would give the following partial and full crease patterns:
![]()
![]()
Partial and full CPs
Folding this crease pattern yields a base like this (viewed from the top):
![]()
View of base from the top
However, for a human, we’re aiming for a plan view. Hence, we’ll need to open up this figure along the axis, and bend out the flaps a little. The photo below shows the result:
![]()
Folding the arm flaps out at an angle would mean that some of the paper allocated to this flap would be taken up by the folded region (upper red circle), leaving an arm which is only 5 units long. Similarly, the squash fold that takes place in the pelvis region (lower red circle) also sucks up a unit from each leg. Visually, this squash fold adds to the height of the torso region, making it look taller. Hence the need to make the proportions slightly different when drawing the tree figure – origami is one of those strange things where the amount of material you have is conserved, unlike in drawing. Things like shoulder and knee joints need to be factored in to the initial tree figure; drawing a tree whose proportions are exactly the same as that of the subject you’re trying to design usually produces a model that looks almost, but not quite, right.
Once the base is folded, all that’s left to do is to turn it into something more presentable:
![]()
A possible end result for the crease pattern shown above
This design for a human figure is still pretty minimal. Still, it’s a starting point for a more detailed figure, for example, one with a full complement of fingers and toes. This requires only a bunch of grafts along the edges of the square – something that’s quite easily added!
















































March 5th, 2007 at 7:13 pm
hey, i need the intructions, if you put that on your site it might get more BIS customers as we are doing that kind of stuff right now in art, i’m just trying to help and sorry for spelling mistakes, i had to make this a quick one as i’m late for one of my ART lessons and have not done my homework, maybe you could help me and others by putting on some instructions..
Thanks for willing to read this nonsense and fucking ….
Cathy Vo
P.S FUCK OFF, i love swearing so live with it!
March 5th, 2007 at 9:13 pm
The instructions are there. Can’t find them? Tough. No one ever said this was easy.
March 8th, 2007 at 6:05 pm
Nice design. Thanks for sharing.
I’ve been trying so hard to read ODS but could never go beyond 30% of the book without getting distracted and folding other stuff.
March 8th, 2007 at 7:17 pm
ODS isn’t a book that needs to be read cover to cover, so don’t worry too much about not making past 30%. Actual folding and experimentation is way more valuable in terms of experience and knowledge gained.
March 15th, 2007 at 2:36 am
wow, never met a 20 x 20 grid before…